Vršačke Planine

Vršac has long been on our list of places to visit. In large part because of the Vršačke Planine but also because of its location within the Banat. Instead of our usual railway station, to get to Vršac one departs from Beograd Dunav station. Its inauspicious entrance left us not entirely convinced we were in the correct place.

Nor was Ella Tili convinced by the rusty rails or the platform. But we were assured by a staff members that a train would depart at 11:30. Slowly more and more people arrived and it looked increasingly probable that we would indeed get to Vršac by train that day.

And lo and behold...a train arrived with places for bicycles! Seated and bicycle tickets paid for, we set off - nearer 12:00 than 11:30, but who really cares?

Some of the railway buildings are in need of a touch of paint, and notwithstanding the fact that close to Pančevo the train stops for cars at each level crossing! we made good progress through the expanse of the gentle Vojvodina landscape. 

As everywhere, Ella Tili made a spectacle with the Follow-Me.

It was a scorching hot day, so after climbing out of town, we made a drinks stop at the Vršac Tourist Information Center close to the Tvrđava on Vršačka kula. Ella Tili had locally made Lemonade and me a taste of the local Frankovka grape red wine.

From the fortress we could look along the forested massif to our tomorrow's destination.

From the Paragliding launch, we looked down onto Vršac and the Vojvodina plains.

We overnighted at Planinarski Dom 'Široko Bilo', a little way, first along tarmac road and then gravel track, into the hills. It offers 8 simple but clean two-bed rooms, a shower, and a restaurant. Sylvia (069 761 986) is a very welcoming host, and the club house is open weekends throughout the year. 

Sadly the local brewery stopped brewing beer some years ago.

As we have come to expect, there is always an element of trial and error in our journeys. Despite a 40-minute loop that took us back to the Planinarski Dom - interesting nonetheless, we finally found the correct route only to discover that it was overgrown and unsuitable for bicycles. We therefore descended through the vineyards to the road and regained our route further along.

One nice aspect, among many, is that being in a relatively isolated corner of Vojvodina close to the border with Romania, the Planine is very quiet.

Route finding did not necessarily get any easier...or more successful, however Ella Tili kept her nerve and her legs pumping and we finally got to the point were we wanted to be for the final assault on the highest point along the ridge.

After a strenuous 300 meter climb up to the summit along good but what at times appears to be a never ending track, we made it to the viewing tower. Here looking north towards Veliko Središte, Gudurica and Romania:  

Thankfully the descent was easier, and we were soon down to Malo Središte and the plains below. 

Before returning to Vršac, we paused next to what for us is one of the particular symbols of the Vršačke Planine: the wild rose. They are everywhere on the lower slopes before you get into the mature forest, and are often the first plants to re-colonise pasture - not necessarily great for cycling! They are mostly pink but we also saw white.  

We were a little lost on where to eat, so we applied Mama's rule of thumb. We looked around until we saw what we thought were discerning locals having lunch. Rather than an Ethno Restaurant we ended up at a surprisingly good fast food joint on Trg. Save Kovačevića. Ella Tili ate grilled chicken with mashed potato and tomato salad while I chose Leskovac Sausages with mashed potatoe and šopska salad. And just to round off the meal, Ella Tili had a scoop of chocolate ice cream from the parlour next door!

The 'Marelisiesque' ticket counter in the railway station. Just as our train was due, a train from Romania arrived. It appeared to be a connection with the Belgrade train, and according to our conductor, it is possible to take bicycles on the Romanian train. Mmmm...

A red evening sky awaited us in Belgrade. Along rain-soaked side roads and cycle path we made our way home.