Prima Ballerina

Vršačke Planine

Vršac has long been on our list of places to visit. In large part because of the Vršačke Planine but also because of its location within the Banat. Instead of our usual railway station, to get to Vršac one departs from Beograd Dunav station. Its inauspicious entrance left us not entirely convinced we were in the correct place.

Nor was Ella Tili convinced by the rusty rails or the platform. But we were assured by a staff members that a train would depart at 11:30. Slowly more and more people arrived and it looked increasingly probable that we would indeed get to Vršac by train that day.

And lo and behold...a train arrived with places for bicycles! Seated and bicycle tickets paid for, we set off - nearer 12:00 than 11:30, but who really cares?

Some of the railway buildings are in need of a touch of paint, and notwithstanding the fact that close to Pančevo the train stops for cars at each level crossing! we made good progress through the expanse of the gentle Vojvodina landscape. 

As everywhere, Ella Tili made a spectacle with the Follow-Me.

It was a scorching hot day, so after climbing out of town, we made a drinks stop at the Vršac Tourist Information Center close to the Tvrđava on Vršačka kula. Ella Tili had locally made Lemonade and me a taste of the local Frankovka grape red wine.

From the fortress we could look along the forested massif to our tomorrow's destination.

From the Paragliding launch, we looked down onto Vršac and the Vojvodina plains.

We overnighted at Planinarski Dom 'Široko Bilo', a little way, first along tarmac road and then gravel track, into the hills. It offers 8 simple but clean two-bed rooms, a shower, and a restaurant. Sylvia (069 761 986) is a very welcoming host, and the club house is open weekends throughout the year. 

Sadly the local brewery stopped brewing beer some years ago.

As we have come to expect, there is always an element of trial and error in our journeys. Despite a 40-minute loop that took us back to the Planinarski Dom - interesting nonetheless, we finally found the correct route only to discover that it was overgrown and unsuitable for bicycles. We therefore descended through the vineyards to the road and regained our route further along.

One nice aspect, among many, is that being in a relatively isolated corner of Vojvodina close to the border with Romania, the Planine is very quiet.

Route finding did not necessarily get any easier...or more successful, however Ella Tili kept her nerve and her legs pumping and we finally got to the point were we wanted to be for the final assault on the highest point along the ridge.

After a strenuous 300 meter climb up to the summit along good but what at times appears to be a never ending track, we made it to the viewing tower. Here looking north towards Veliko Središte, Gudurica and Romania:  

Thankfully the descent was easier, and we were soon down to Malo Središte and the plains below. 

Before returning to Vršac, we paused next to what for us is one of the particular symbols of the Vršačke Planine: the wild rose. They are everywhere on the lower slopes before you get into the mature forest, and are often the first plants to re-colonise pasture - not necessarily great for cycling! They are mostly pink but we also saw white.  

We were a little lost on where to eat, so we applied Mama's rule of thumb. We looked around until we saw what we thought were discerning locals having lunch. Rather than an Ethno Restaurant we ended up at a surprisingly good fast food joint on Trg. Save Kovačevića. Ella Tili ate grilled chicken with mashed potato and tomato salad while I chose Leskovac Sausages with mashed potatoe and šopska salad. And just to round off the meal, Ella Tili had a scoop of chocolate ice cream from the parlour next door!

The 'Marelisiesque' ticket counter in the railway station. Just as our train was due, a train from Romania arrived. It appeared to be a connection with the Belgrade train, and according to our conductor, it is possible to take bicycles on the Romanian train. Mmmm...

A red evening sky awaited us in Belgrade. Along rain-soaked side roads and cycle path we made our way home.

Orthodox Easter Holidays: Vodno, Suva Planina & Đavolja varoš (Devil's Town)

Our journey started in Skopje, after a delayed evening flight to join Mama. We took the bus to the Gondola station and the Gondola to the top of Vodna...after all, we had a long day's hike along the ridge to Matka ahead of us. In the distance the snow still capped the ridge of mountains marking the border between Macedonia and Kosovo.

To allow us to cover longer distances Ella Tili's bicycle came with us. Over the course of the next ten days she became well accustomed to and quite competent on difficult and technical terrain. 

As we have come to expect, one must maintain a keen eye for the many and diverse flowers in the Western Balkans. Here a wild Iris.

After a long and hot hike/bike along the ridge we finally got to look down on our destination - Matka.

Ella Tili pointing the way...and with the stick ensuring that any snakes knew in advance that we were coming!

One of the many isolated churches dotted throughout the Western Balkans mountains.

A long, difficult and rocky path led down to the lake below. Enough of a challenge to walk down, so the bicycle had to be carried.

A fine dinner awaited us at the hotel.

We awoke to early morning light on the lake, and after an al fresco breakfast on the terrace we set off by rowing boat the short distance across the lake to the footpath that led up to the church we had looked down on the evening before from our descent route.

From the church we climbed onto a spur that gave us a great view back down onto it. It is also an area for rock climbing routes. 

And the view back down to our hotel.

Back at the lake, the metal plate had to be rung like a bell to let the ferrymen know that you wanted a pick up.

We then took a spectacular boat ride up the lake to a cave.

And asked to be dropped off so that we could walk back along the exposed but magnificent footpath cut into the gorge walls.

Just at the point where one has to take hold of the metal security gable, Mama nearly put her hand on this snake that lay dosing in the afternoon warmth. We had been warned of snakes so were on constant watch for them but nonetheless it came as a surprise to us all as we expected them at our feet!

From Skopje we travelled by bus first to the thermal baths at Vranjska Banja - where the water is a scalding 92 degrees when it comes out of the tap but as a sign of the poor economic situation in SE Serbia is very little developed, and then onto Niš. We rendezvoused with the director of the Mountaineers' Club with which we staying in the Dom Planinara (018 525 254) in the Fortress in the center of the city!

It is shared club house with six other clubs, and serves as a great meeting point and a quiet place to sit and drink a beer under the shade of the surrounding trees. We stayed in the Planinarski Dom in Donji Studena. In the late afternoon we climbed onto 'Recidibus', the site of an fort dating from Constantine the Great's time who was born in Niš, and further onto the main ridge. From Recidibus we could see the summit of Trem in the distance. Our goal for the following day.

A much needed Mountaineers' breakfast was served by the club's cook. And loaded down with 7 Liters of water - after all Suva Planina means Dry Mountain - we set off.

During the lunch stop Ella Tili drew an entry into her Journey Diary - two girls were camped on the Col ready to celebrated the May Day holiday.

The last remains of the winter's snow helped to cool off our hot feet!

Trem 1809 meters. Ella Tili made it to the top under her own steam from 1000 meters, the point where the track became too rough and we cached her bicycle. 

Back along the magnificent ridge past the Col to Sokolov kmn 1523 meters. 

Ella Tili was applauded by everyone as she arrived at the summit. It was great to see other families with children, all be they a little older, on the summit. ET then set about replacing some of the energy reserves she had depleted!

On the descent, with Sokolov kmn ahead. The horseshoe ridge would offer a great ski tour.

Back at the Col. Time for a quick snack and water stop, but with storm clouds building we did not hang around too long.

It is a beautiful area.

Back at Tvrđava (Fortress) in Niš, Ella Tili points to where she had stood the day before. 

A very proud Mama.

From Niš, we travelled to Prolom Banja in the Radan Planina. It is another beautiful forested mountainous area, however we were disappointed that the cycle trail we followed, jointly developed with Austrian Development Cooperation funds, was to the greatest extent destroyed by heavy forestry tractors and lorries.  

We nonetheless made it to our destination: Đavolja varoš (Devil's Town). There are similar geological formations in Turkey and just down the road from Shatili, but they are always impressive to see, and our arriving from above and descending down to them added to the impression.

Before leaving for Niš, and then onto Belgrade, we tasted some Ethno cuisine - slow-cooked lamb and potatoes.  

We were positively surprised how well the journey went using express buses and public transport the entire way. The nice thing is, it forces one to travel with the minimum clothing and equipment.