Sunday, December 2, 2012

Mid August: Valjevo & Gracac Gorge

This photograph does not do justice of the fantastic walk up the Gracac Gorge that is possible. We initially ventured in by bicycle, only to find the going too rough so we locked them to a fence and proceeded on foot. We were keen to make it to the Celije Monastery; which meant walking into the evening. In total we waded the river over thirty times - only possible in summer when the level is low! And we only went part way, the best option is to take a bus to the Lelici Monastery further up the foothills and descend into the gorge and walk all the way back to Valjevo.


The Belgrade to Bar railway line also crisscrosses the line of the gorge as it cuts through tunnels and passes overhead on viaducts and bridges. It is a rail journey that is marked down for the future.


After a brief snack at the Celije Monastery we started the walk back to Valjevo.




A pause at the Lelici Monastery.



A truly beautiful traditional fence, completely impenetrable, easy to repair, and a work of art!




Sadly the orchards that the fences protect are more often than not in drastic need of care and attention. While they still provide fruit for Rakija, they are untended and not pruned.


 Shortly before the descent down to Jovanja Monastery we could look back towards Valjevo and down into the valley where the Valjevsko Pivo & Atlas brewery is located! 


Saturday, December 1, 2012

Mid August Cycle Along the Danube River Dykes - Centa to Pancevo

While the Little Lady was in Kindergarten we stole a great cycle ride out. We took our taxi to Centa, a town close to the confluence of the Tisa - a beautiful river in its own right that flows from Hungary through the plains of Vojvodina, and is the site of the amazing early summer Mayfly hatch - and Danube.


Parched ground but nonetheless beautiful tracks along the top of the river dykes. The houses are every 5km and were once upon a time occupied by workers who oversaw the dykes.



Across the Danube to Zemun.


'Out of Africa', taking us back to Tanzania and Zanzibar when we used ferries to cross rivers and bays. This boat was curtesy of a couple who had worked in Walmart in Alaska for 10 years!


 Approaching 'Great War Island', from where the summer pontoon bridge allowed us to cross back to Novi Belgrade and pick up the cycle path back home. Just be sure to walk and not cycle across the pontoon bridge! 


Late August Cycle Trip: Brankovica, Gradac River, Mali Povlen & Bobija

Our tour started at Brankovica, a small village including a village school museum. It is a very peaceful place offering shade from the strong summer sun and stifling heat!


A candle was lit for the family members alive - above, and one for Opapa Rudolf below. Earlier in the year a lady was gracious enough to point out the distinction of above and below to us when Ella Tili was ready to take the convenience of the lower tray.





Then it was on to Valjevo and a much needed cool off in the River Gradac that flows down from Divcibare through a gorge that keeps the water refreshingly cold even in the hottest of weather - up to 40 degrees Celsius this summer! Ella Tili practiced her jumping.


Up at "Marko's" on Povlen, we discovered that in the intervening weeks since our last visit - on our way to Pogar - the mountain bike routes had been marked. We had discussed the routes with the main driving force behind the project earlier in the year when we visited the Krusic Hunters' Lodge and cycled Medvednik and Jablanik.


As the sun was setting we climbed up to Veliki (Big) Povlen (1271m) for sundowner drinks.


The setting sun, and the direction of our route in two days time.


The budding mountaineer; as is now the norm, Ella Tili climbed up on her own to the summit.


The following morning and an early start for our first 'big day'! Behind the haystack in the distance can be seen the gently ascending track (left to right) which was to be our return route home later in the day.


Gradually decaying houses picket the route.


'Pause' at a bell tower next to a small chapel between Sredni (Middle) and Mali (Small) Povlen - 1301m and 1347m respectively; yes, Mali Povlen is higher than Veliki Povlen! 


After the descent from Mali Povlen, we began our way home on a round about route.


The start of day three, and looking back on the forested slopes under Sredni and Veliki Povlen through which we cycled the previous day on a wonderful contouring track. Again an incredible day with not a cloud in the sky.


The ubiquitous haystacks that dot the landscape, fenced off ready for what could turn out to be another hard winter like the last.


Heavily laden plum trees in the frequent orchards along the route.


Apero in the shade of a rather ugly cabin on the summit of Bobija (1272m).


And looking back along our return route home with Veliki Povlen on the far left. The Podrinjsko-Valjevske ridge is the final massif of the Dinar Mountain system, and runs west-northwest-east-southeast (from Ljubovija to Rudnik). From the approximate 16 summits, you can look north-northeast towards Belgrade, Avala, Fruska Gora, Vojvodina and mountains of Romania. It is challenging but fantastic cycling country. 


The Tresnjica Gorge that lies to the south of Bobjia, is the home of a huge Griffin Vulture colony. We had observed occasional raptors on the ride out, but on the ride home we counted more than 20 vultures at one time soaring high in the thermals.



It was an amazing sight.


The homestead typical of the massif. The small house, fenced-in vegetable and flower garden, haystacks and stacks of firewood. It is the land of earth toilets and water springs. When water is plentiful perhaps some houses have piped water (at least to outside the door) but when we passed towards the end of an extremely long and dry summer, water was running very slowly and one had to descend down to the actual spring to replenish. 


Friday, November 30, 2012

A Belated Ella Tili's Birthday Party Blog - Ella Tili's Ada Safari


For my birthday I invited Emma, Dina and Sylvia to Ada for a picnic and safari! Ada is quite a place with lots of children's play areas, sports facilities, a cycle path, and in summer a significant number of Belgraders swim from the pebble beaches in the man-made lake fed from the Sava River through filter beds.  


There is one area with benches and tables under trees with fire places close to hand.


Two Princesses on the swing!



The safari begins! A mad dash from one object to the next...achtung velo!


The clues led us to our final destination...




...ice cream and a late evening swim.


An extremely brave kitten! Lessons from Sigi on how to correctly handle and stroke a cat.